Wonderful. Saw it the first time at home, really liked it; saw it the second time in the theater and was happy drowning in its atmosphere for two hours. The plot is minimal, but it never drags, slowly going from a hangout movie filled with wry, dry humor to a surprisingly effective drama about age and (im)mortality. The conceit never seems at all silly; it helps that the genre elements are being kept to a minimum. Another achievement is that, with main characters being vampires who constantly go on about how much better it was in the old days (i.e. hundreds of years ago), the film could have been bullshit hipster porn aiming for cheapest laughs, but Jarmusch is much smarter than that and largely keeps the irony out of the movie. It's still gloomily hilarious, but there's genuine sadness behind it all, which gets more and more apparent closer to the end.
Tilda Swinton is a goddess.
Best film of the year so far, Jarmusch's best since Ghost Dog.
P.S.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=spNCGEAOstU